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We’ve all been there, so let’s break down the ways you can quickly wear the 3861.

The decision tree for buying a watch has sprouted countless offshoots since our enthusiasts started turning this watch hobby on its head. Some people have violated their neighbours’ fences and entered their property, creating an HOA battle that could sour you for the rest of the year. But for now, it doesn’t matter. What does matter, however, is what happens when you wish to purchase a watch. You walk into a shop or browse an e-commerce platform (hello there) and realise that it’s not that simple.

You will find that the enthusiast queue has made leather straps a cottage industry. One watch can become 100 watches if you have strap options that make your watch feel like a new watch every time. Want to buy a Tudor Black Bay GMT? Well, you should be prepared to choose between a textile strap, a leather strap or a steel bracelet. Before you tell me it’s an easy choice, look at each one – they all look good. One adds greater contrast with the colourful baffle, one brings a vintage appeal, and one is a purely tooled watch.

Crucially, the age-old “belt and bracelet” debate has only become more complicated. If there’s one watch that’s been at the centre of this dilemma for decades, it’s undoubtedly the OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch, a.k.a. the Belt Monster.

The Speedmaster is one of the few watches that might claim the epithet “icon”, which in fact means not only enduring legibility, but let’s say iconic fact. I mean, the history of rapidity is deeply entrenched. I don’t need to re-limit the entire timeline of NASA’s space programme and how the watch has been a companion from the racing chronograph to the moon landing. I will say, however, that last week I visited the National Air and Space Museum in Washington, D.C., where Gordon Cooper from the Gemini mission proudly displayed Gordon Cooper’s own Speedmaster. The watch’s energy grows stronger when seen in the right context.

Cooper’s watch wears a thin bracelet in the Milanese style, an option I can’t see – especially nowadays, when modern seafarers have ownership of the Milanese. Being part of the Gemini mission at the time of the “wow, this watch was certified in 1965”, I started to think about the leather strap option (as one does).

As a member of Hodinkee, Speedy is at the heart of our company’s identity. I’ve seen countless colleagues – old school, modern and in-between. If there’s one common thing about everyone I’ve met, it’s that they don’t have it any one way. Sure, I’ve seen more racers on belts than bracelets, but at a time when a modern Speedmaster 1861 bracelet isn’t necessarily a coveted item, I’ve gotten into the hobby as well.

That all changed in 2021, when Omega made its first major update to the Speedmaster collection with the introduction of the replica omega Speedmaster 3861 (to coincide with a specification upgrade using Co-Axial Element certification).

For the purposes of this discussion, I’m going to limit this to the 3861’s steel, although the 2021 release cycle also brings in some killer precious metal options. Oh, and then 2022 saw the introduction of Moonlight Rapid, darn it.

So what does this mean? I’m not supposed to tell you what Master Racing should buy? I can’t, I won’t. You will often hear the advice: “Always buy the watch on the bracelet, and then buy the strap.” Of course, I think that’s good advice. But what if you never plan to wear a bracelet? The $400 saved will give you more options for straps.

It’s all personal preference. While Omega makes the band vs. bracelet decision difficult, I think the choice makes it harder to make a big purchase that should last a lifetime. From nylon to leather to brushed steel to polished steel, it’s hard to go wrong. Personally, I’m a steel bracelet guy. But I’d love to know how you made this decision, so please let me know in the comments below.

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The 2022 Rolex Air-King Ref. 126900

The design history of the modern Rolex Air King is difficult to understand. How did a simple 34mm view of time intended for World War II pilots develop into the inspiration for a dashboard inspired by a supersonic car trying to destroy the land speed record? If the watch is part of a whole new line of models (perhaps speed?), then it doesn’t seem too far off the mark. ), that wouldn’t seem to be too far off the mark, but still designating it as a blowout is an interesting choice, to say the least. Regardless of this watch’s strange journey, I have actually found the Air King Ref. 126900 to be one of the best modern Rolexes on the market.

Unlike most models in the Rolex catalogue, the Air King is not the result of incremental evolutionary changes over the years. If you look at a submarine from 50 years ago, it doesn’t look that far removed from today’s submarines, and you can say the same for most branded models. Not with the Gas King. If you’re out on your own then older airs, especially airs like the Ref. 14000, looks more like a modern oyster permanent than a modern air.

The Air-king’s dial has luminescent markers applied at three, six and nine and five-minute intervals, which, despite its inland origins, actually makes the watch look very typey. If I didn’t know that it was inspired by Rolex’s partnership with the Bloodhound SSC project and its instruments, it would be easy to dismiss the Air-King as a flieger-inspired watch. Weather is definitely a pilot’s watch.

Apart from my opinion on the history of the Air-King, I think it is an amazing expression. Oddly enough, it has the same “professional” case as the GMT-Master II (including the Crown Guard), but without any kind of functional bezel, which may actually be a first for the brand. It’s really just a time-only watch, but the parade of numbers on the sleek black dial along with the green indication of seconds and the Rolex moniker make the Air-King Pop a cut above most of the models in its professional line (excluding, of course, the factory-set Ice Out piece and the model that showcases Rolex’s new hippie obsession with colours and emoticons.

The more popular Rolex models like the Explorer and the World Diver are cool, but they’re the dozen or so characters I inhabit, and probably where you live too. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I consider myself an Aunique individual, so if I had to choose any modern Rolex, I’d naturally be drawn to something like the Air-King. I think it’s cool to wear the most unintentionally weird watches from the world’s favourite watch brand.

If you’d like more details on my week spent in this observation, check out the accompanying video to this article, where I proudly stroll around my neighbourhood, modelling on my wrist and just having a grand old time Californian sunshine this time of year for everyone in the south.

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The master utilises his rarely seen tool watch and we have the pictures to prove it.

If there’s one film that’s been marked on my calendar since I first announced it, it’s Martin Scorsese’s Killers of the Flower Moon. It’s David Grann’s adaptation of the book of the same name, which traces the gruesome murders of the Osage Tribe in 1920s Oklahoma. It’s a mystery that also covers the birth of the FBI and uncovers the conspiracy. It’s all true – with every disturbing twist and turn. I read this book last year after about three days and highly recommend it to anyone. If nothing else, you may learn something about the tragedy that you may not have learnt in your school history books.

When Scorsese made the film as a movie, it was also announced that Leonardo DiCaprio would be playing one of the titular roles of Ernest Burkhart, the key figure in the vast, sinister conspiracy (I’ll try to make an attempt at that). Ernest Burkhart is a key figure in a huge, vicious conspiracy (I’ll try not to spoil it here – but history is history). After the principal photography in the film is done (October 2021) it’s basically a long waiting game.

But we knew this was a cinematic powerhouse, with scores from Robert Deniro and Jesse Plemons, as well as the late Robbie Robertson. After an epic wait, Killers of the Flower Moon has finally arrived at theatres everywhere. I plan to see it this weekend, but I’ve also been delving into the behind-the-scenes anecdotes surrounding the film, which is how I came across the watch-related portion of today’s discussion.

Scorsese is actually a Rolex brand ambassador – he can often be seen in official Rolex campaign material and wearing some version of the Presidential Bracelet dated on interview trails. In fact, I came to associate the director with the watch. But as more and more behind-the-scenes images began to emerge, I began to notice the iconic Rolex Oyster bracelet adorning his wrist.

Close examination and some research showed that Scorsese was a long-time wearer and owner of a Rolex Submariner ref. 16610, but not just any reference. 16610. His choice seems to be the 16610LV aka “Kermit” Submariner, with its green aluminium bezel commemorating 50 years of submarines. It was released in 2003 and remained in the Rolex collection until 2010, when the brand began the transition from aluminium to ceramic bezel models. This is a famous watch because it expands the “Maxi” Lume plot, unlike similar submarines of the time.

Diving into the internet archives to find Scorsese in this replica rolex watch, I came back to several live photos of the killer (including a key news image from the film) which showed him wearing it. Clearly, this was a watch that meant something to him, and he returned to his watch often.

In fact, it looks like this may be the only Watchman that took him to Oklahoma for the entire shoot. While seeing a director in a submarine (James Cameron basically set the precedent here) isn’t necessarily shocking news, it felt special with Scorsese. He’s the “President” guy, which is a kind of tool watch. But it’s also great to see him wearing a tool watch while participating in a craft. The interesting part is that it’s not like he changed his wardrobe for the occasion. You still see him wearing a dress shirt tucked into a pair of slacks. It’s just that the watch has become more casual.

Interestingly, I was able to spot the watch on Scorsese’s wrist in the Flower Moon context of the killers, as he wore the Chanel for the Bleu de Chanel commercial shoot with Dune Star Star Startimothée Chalamet. If the photo above makes it hard to figure out the green colour of the bezel, it almost confirms the watch (although the maximum limit is already a dead giveaway).

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Fashion updates, complications and colours include

While the new collection maintains the aero-inspired and sturdy profile of the Vengeance, the update brings the Vengeance in line with the other updates we’ve seen in the Breitling catalogue.

The Vengeance is lighter than many of the other years in the Breitling collection and is a modern mashup of everything that makes Breitling Breitling. The adjectives actually write themselves: large, bold, sturdy, inspirational tools.

The adjustments to the case, dial and silhouette of the repeater make it more streamlined and modern. Gone are the big wings of the Breitling logo and the Arabic numerals, replaced by the simple moulded “B” and Baton markings. The GMT and Chronograph stainless steel cases measure 44mm, while the three-handed automatic measures 42mm. All of this is a reduction compared to the previous collection. In addition, the case offers more detailing and finishing, with bevelled corners and polished detailing on the rotating bezel labels.

The Avenger Collection has aviation inspiration everywhere, and the chronograph remains the most important model in the line. The updated Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 measures 44mm x 15.2mm (53mm lugs to bar) and uses the manufacturer’s calibre B01, a COSC-certified, column wheel, vertical clutch movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The manufacture movement represents a technological leap forward for Avenger chronographs. It’s still a big watch that’s not for everyone, but that’s what we’ve come to expect, even asking for English. In other corners of the catalogue the dimensions of the product have been reduced so that the true purpose of the Avenger remains the original purpose. The Avenger Chronograph 44 comes with a steel bracelet or military leather strap and four dial colours: blue, green, black or sand.

In addition to the stainless steel chronograph,Replica Breitling has introduced a “Night Duty” version with the same specifications, but with a black ceramic bezel and a case with a black or yellow dial (the crown and pushers are titanium!). The Avenger GMT 44 is the same size as the Avenger GMT 44.

The Avenger GMT 44 measures 44mm x 12mm (53 lugs to lugs) and has an independently adjustable 24-hour hand due to the ETA base Breitling Caliber 32, COSC-certified, and has a 42-hour power reserve (“Caller GMT”). In the words of Stacey, it is a 24-hour hand, not an hour hand, which is adjustable). The Avenger GMT has a bi-directional rotating bezel with a quick-relief “rider” option card in the base direction, which is a centennial-style signature.